A postcard from ...

... Beijing

While most of Beijing is hooked on modernisation, its music scene is struggling to kick an unimaginative cover band habit. At one joint the other week, an AC/DC tribute act drew the largest crowd.

Even one of the pioneers of alternative Chinese music has lost it. Dou Wei recently torched a Beijing News journalist's car in the hope that an act of violence would compensate for his music's lack of rebellion.

The absence of innovation is hardly surprising given China's musical history. Beijing's first nightclub didn't open until 1984 - and that was in the Holiday Inn. Many Beijingers think Bob Marley and the Wailers is some balding expat and a paid entourage of young girls in a karaoke bar.

But, 25 years after Marley's death, reggae is finally stirring up the East. The source of this latest Rasta revolution is a wooden beach bar, sandwiched between a noodle restaurant and someone's washing. Together, which is Beijing's first reggae venue, is playing host to a four-day celebration of Marley's life, to the bewilderment of local residents. Green, gold and red striped flags cause a passing grandma to break off from hobbling. The local rag and bone man sits contentedly on his cart - 80 yuan (£6) richer for supplying the Jamaican-style barbecue - while DJ Herbie plays a 12-hour set free of charge.

Reggae is based on human rights, a concept that bugs the Chinese government. The club's owner, Robin Liao points out the political undertones of the evening. 'If we can promote reggae, we can promote a way of life and encourage people who have missed out on China's new wealth not to give up.'


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A postcard from ...

This article was first published on guardian.co.uk at 00.07 BST on Sunday 18 June 2006. It appeared in the Observer on Sunday 18 June 2006 on p10 of the Reviews & features section. It was last updated at 00.07 BST on Sunday 18 June 2006.

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