- The Observer, Sunday April 14 2002
Price and stockist? £5.99 from Marks & Spencer.
What's interesting about the wine? I bet there aren't many of you who've met this particular grape before. Durif was a French variety (named after the man who propagated it, Dr Durif), but it's rare in France these days. You're more likely to find it in Australia, which is where this example comes from. The grape takes no prisoners, but it seems to flourish in hot climates, retaining decent acidity and delivering a wine with plenty of flavour and tannin. It's not the subtlest wine in the world, but it's fun to serve blind.
What does the wine smell and taste like? There's a shedload of oak on the nose of this rich, medium-coloured, cherry, plum and vanilla-scented red. (Too much for some, it could be argued.) On the palate, it's the wine's acidity that stands out, giving it a character that is almost Italian in style. The wine is pretty tannic, but there's enough fruit for balance. You definitely need to serve this with food to soften its slightly raw edges.
What does it go with? Rich casseroles and stews, roast beef and mature cheeses.
Serving temperature? 16-18 C.
Will it keep? Yes, for at least another two to three years.
What are we tasting next? 1999 Dominio Los Pinos Crianza, Valencia (£7.49, selected branches of Waitrose, or from Waitrose Direct on 0800 188 881).
· Send your views to tim.atkin@observer.co.uk
