Notes on chocolate: ‘I was blown away by a complex, tasty, spicy cacao’

I wasn’t planning on chocolate hunting or tasting. I knew about the viscous hot chocolate at Danieli, down the fairy-lit Brewers Lane and I’d been invited to a tasting by the lovely Jennifer Earle, in Soho. But I was way over the other side of London, relaxing in my attic bedroom at Bingham Riverhouse.

In the drawing room I’d overheard people asking for the Ceremonial Cacao. I guffawed at the pretentiousness of this. But then decided to try it myself, and was blown away. Complex, tasty, spicy.

I asked, repeatedly, what was in it, and was told it was ‘just’ the cacao (Full Power Cacao, Ceremonial Grade to give it its full kennel name). Reader, I became addicted to it, so much so that I had to buy an insulated Black & Blum cup from the Projekt Store on the high street (not to mention some Snoopy mugs) to take some home with me.

This cacao was so flavoursome. I checked and double checked the ingredients. What made it so spicy with that gentle slap of heat? I knew cocoa could be complex, but this was surely not just the cocoa? Apparently it was.

Well… that didn’t prove true. I got home, ordered some of the cacao, made it and it didn’t taste the same. I emailed the chef at Bingham and he told me he sprinkled some rose water, cinnamon, cayenne and maple syrup into it. I haven’t perfected it yet, but will keep trying. It’s an amazing mid-morning drink.