Beneath its clock, London’s St Pancras station boasts one of Tracey Emin’s neon signs. “I want my time with you,” it reads, a bittersweet message in glowing pink. “[Neon] is a feelgood factor,” Emin once said, “emotional for everybody.”
She was right: fluorescence is infectious – from fireworks to funfairs and acid-flecked fingernails – and now is the season for it. Neon cocktails using bittersweet liqueurs such as Campari and blue curaçao, Aperol and amaro are no exception, their traffic-light hues (and, yes, a chunky dose of sugar) are sure to lift dim moods on dark nights.
I’ve been enjoying this interpretation of a negroni sbagliato recently. Literally a “bungled negroni”, the classic version takes Campari and sweet vermouth and then substitutes a negroni’s gin for sparkling wine (typically prosecco). Here, I have bungled it further, replacing the Campari with Suze, a citrussy French aperitif the colour of radioactive sunshine, and – because I tried it and liked it – used dry vermouth instead of sweet, before topping it up with cava.
In tribute to Emin, I’ve made this a recipe for two, but it’s easily scaled up – and, if you premix the Suze and vermouth, it’s great for a party. Simply top up glasses ready-charged with the premix as and when your guests arrive.
The recipe
Served in a Nick & Nora glass, this is shorter than a traditional negroni sbagliato. Serves 2.
Suze 20ml
dry white vermouth 20ml
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ice for stirring
cava to top up the glass
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orange twist to garnish
In a cocktail shaker, stir the Suze, vermouth and an ice cube together briefly, then strain directly into two Nick & Nora glasses, dividing the mixture equally. Top up with cava, add a twist of orange zest and serve.