Maybe it’s the awe-inspiring landscape that surrounds it, or its remoteness from much of the rest of Europe, but there’s a refreshing, bracing energy that runs through Reykjavík – a sense of freedom, experimentation and eccentricity that accompanies many creative pursuits in Iceland’s capital. The city’s cheerful corrugated-iron houses give this place the look of a quirky vintage fishing town, but this is also a razor-sharp centre of contemporary art and music. Its diminutive size makes it perfectly manageable in a weekend, and nature is never too far: it’s in the snow-capped mountains across the harbour, or the heat that bubbles up in its geothermal pools.
Friday 1pm: Straight to the catch
Drop your bags at Exeter, a hotel with a chic, post-industrial take on Nordic minimalism on the harbourfront. For lunch, cross the road and make for Saegreifinn (AKA The Sea Baron). Inside this unassuming former fishermen’s hut you’ll be served delicious lobster soup – with succulent chunks swimming in a creamy bisque.
2pm: Step it up
Standing tall above the town centre, Hallgrímskirkja is a majestic feat of modernist architecture. Its dramatic, steeped concrete structure echoes the basalt columns and ice formations of the Icelandic wilderness. Head up the tower for a bird’s eye view over the city.
4pm: Mid-century marvel
Pop into Mokka Caffi for a cup of something warm: this café, originally founded in 1958, was long a hangout for the city’s intellectuals. It still also operates as an art gallery today, with rotating displays on its mid-century wooden walls.
8pm: Raise a glass
With a name that means “Cheers” in Icelandic, Skál! is a joyful spot for dinner. Serving a brilliant version of neo-Nordic cuisine with no fussiness but plenty of inspired ideas, using Iceland’s best ingredients, from ocean perch to lamb and halibut.
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Saturday 9am: Baked goods for breakfast
The cinnamon rolls from Brauð & Co have cemented this bakery’s excellent reputation but to try something uniquely Icelandic, go for the flaky, custard-filled vínarbrauð.
10am: On the arts trail
Iceland is home to a slew of eccentric, experimental artists and contemporary art museum Hafnarhús is the place to see their creations. Afterwards, walk down the industrial area of Grandi to reach on-point cultural centre Marshallhúsid.
1pm: Stand-in lunch
Hot dogs are a (perhaps surprising) Icelandic staple, made with a tasty mix of lamb, pork and beef meat, and slathered with sweet mustard. Grab one from Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur’s tiny red stand – it’s a classic.
2pm: Best of retail
Laugavegur is the city’s main shopping street: it’s here you’ll find Andrá, a smart boutique of Scandinavian fashion. If you’re after a proper Icelandic jumper, choose one from the packed shelves of the Handknitting Association of Iceland.
5pm: All going swimmingly
Most Icelanders swear by swimming in one of the city’s many geothermally heated pools at the end of every day. Vesturbæjarlaug is a local’s favourite: its spacious hot tubs are known as a social leveller. Afterwards, do as the residents do and sit down for dinner at Kaffihús Vesturbæjar just opposite.
11pm: A different kind of dive
Icelanders love a night out, and there are plenty of spots that stay open remarkably late. Start with a glass of wine at Vinstukan Tiu Sopar and then hop from dive bar to dive bar – Gaukurinn, Ölstofa and Dillon should all be on the itinerary.
Sunday 11am: Shine a light
Much as it hosts performances at nighttime, it’s worth visiting Harpa Concert Hall in the bright light of day. It’s then that the kaleidoscopic façade designed by artist Olafur Eliasson comes alive with reflections.
1pm: Signed, sealed, delivered
Some of the city’s best food destinations are to be found inside a food-hall: Posthus Matholl, set inside the fiery-red former post office, is the most picturesque. The juicy burgers at Yuzu will send you off in good spirits.
IN BRIEF
Stay: at the contemporary and stylish Exeter Hotel. It's minimalist, with an edge. Ask for rooms facing the harbour, preferably high up for the best view onto the mountains.
Eat: at Skal! where the open kitchen turns out plates (small and big) that give new verve to staple Icelandic ingredients – all accompanied by great natural wines.
Don't miss: a long soak in at least one of the city’s geothermal pools, be it Sundhöllin or Vesturbæjarlaug: it’s the best way to rub shoulders with the locals.
Photograph by Alamy