Party food is difficult to get right. I have been to celebrations where the guests were left looking around, hoping that some delicious little morsel might be coming their way (it didn’t) and others where conversation was interrupted every two minutes by a bombardment of plated offerings. Neither worked.
The best was one where the hosts appeared towards the end of the party with platters of huge cream brioche, the Italian maritozzi, and we all ended up with whipped cream on our noses.
I don’t really mind if it’s just crisps, but there is something more welcoming about a few handmade treats to go with your glass of fizz. Nothing too elaborate, just a two-bite wonder will do. (There are few things worse than an event where the hosts have gone to a bit too much trouble.) It makes sense to do a couple of things well rather than overstretch yourself. If you do much of it in advance, you can enjoy the party, too.
We are talking savoury or sweet here, just a few fritters that can be rolled into balls beforehand, ready to be fried at the last minute, or tiny pastries, prepared and ready to bake. As much as I love the classic sausage roll, it does feel a bit unimaginative, so this year my little two-bite pastries will be filled with spiced pumpkin. There will be crab fritters, too, made early in the day, then popped into the deep-fat fryer at the last minute, so everyone gets to nibble a hot, harissa-spiked fritter with their glasses of Christmas cider decorated with cranberries and sprig of rosemary.
Crab harissa fritters
Makes 25 small fritters. Ready in 45 minutes.
crab meat 450g, mixed white and brown
panko crumbs 125g
spring onions 3
parsley leaves 7g (a handful)
coriander leaves 7g (a handful)
eggs 2
grain mustard 1 tbsp
harissa 2 tsp
mayonnaise 120g
oil enough for deep frying
Put the crab meat and panko crumbs into a large mixing bowl. Finely slice the spring onions, then chop the parsley and coriander leaves. Add all three to the crab and mix gently.
In a second bowl, break the eggs and beat lightly to mix the yolks and whites, then blend in the mustard, harissa and mayonnaise. Stir into the crab, gently combining meat, crumbs and seasoning.
Shape the mixture into 20 balls, each weighing approximately 45g, rolling them lightly in your hands, floured if necessary. Let the balls settle for 20 minutes in the fridge.
Pour enough oil into a pan in which to deep-fry the croquettes and heat to 180C on a kitchen thermometer. Place one of the croquettes on a draining spoon and lower into the oil – it should crackle immediately – followed by 5 or more of the others, taking care not to crowd the pan.
Keep an eye on the heat – you need it to remain fairly static. Fry the croquettes for 2-3 minutes until golden, lift out and drain on kitchen paper, then repeat with further batches until the mixture is finished. Serve hot, with halves of lemon or lime.
Pumpkin parmesan pastries
Makes 12. Ready in 90 minutes.
The important detail here is to use a firm-fleshed pumpkin or squash, so it keeps its shape inside the pastry. Crown Prince – the pale blue pumpkin – is good, but a butternut will work, too. Just make sure to let it cool and firm up before you use it. You will also need a large baking sheet.
butternut squash or pumpkin 1kg, peeled weight
aleppo pepper ½ tsp
spring onions 3
puff pastry 325g
egg 1, beaten
nigella seeds 2 tsp
Put a deep pan of water on to boil and place a steamer basket or colander over it, covered with a lid. Cut the squash or pumpkin into 5cm pieces and steam for 25-30 minutes, until tender to the point of a knife.
Transfer the steamer of cooked squash to drain over a mixing bowl. (Even though the squash hasn’t touched the water it may still contain a little moisture.)
Then, tip the squash into a bowl and crush to a thick mash using a potato masher or a fork. Season with salt, black pepper and the aleppo pepper.
Finely chop and add the spring onions. Set aside to cool. The mash must be firm and cold before you use it. If it isn’t, then drain it further over a bowl in the fridge.
Roll the puff pastry into a rectangle approximately 35 x 25cm, then turn the pastry so the longest side is facing you. Cut in half lengthways (to give 2 strips of pastry 35 x 12.5cm). Spoon half of the squash in a line along the pastry, about 2cm from the edge. Brush the pastry edge with beaten egg, then roll up tightly into a long sausage, sealing the edges together with more egg.
Repeat using the second piece of pastry and the remaining squash, then place in the fridge for 40 minutes. (Do not be tempted to skip this step.)
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6 and place a baking sheet in the oven. Remove the rolls of pastry from the fridge and slice each one into 6 short lengths. Using a palette knife, transfer the rolls to the heated baking sheet. Brush lightly with more beaten egg, then cut a small slit in the top of each and sprinkle with the nigella seeds.
Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes until the pastry is golden and puffed. Remove and leave to rest for a few minutes before transferring to a serving plate or board.